This is definitely a vanity project not only for Marc Jacobs, but for Fashion appreciator, and one of Jacob’s close, if not closest, friend Director Sofa Coppola. Jacobs became known as a designer in the 1990’s, not as much a trend setter but one that broke through making “grunge and guerrilla” fashion more than palatable. But this film shows how his artistic bent expanded to the theatrical, and almost shocking in design.
Based in New York, Jacobs was influenced by the sophistication of the city, but also the glamour of Hollywood star Elizabeth Taylor who flashed heavy duty carats in jewelry, along with the glitter of the shiny costumes worn by the hottest girl groups at the time. He also loved Bob Fosse’s style of choreography and performance fashion which he used on his show runways. The Supremes flashing their mirrored dresses to the beat of old Soul could be seen on models with big hair for even a pretty recent fashion show.
Jacobs is flamboyant in every sense of the word, with his big personality, imaginative outfits down to his unique manicures. Can’t imagine how he works with them arranging fabric on models. Don’t they get in the way?
Sofia presents archive photos for background on his childhood showing his early imaginative character. He tells how his parents’ divorce was so influential in making him who he became. His fashion forward grandmother was big in his life, taking him in when his mother’s new husband was not welcoming. His grandmother was the perfect example of creative fashion.
There are giggly as well as touching moments between Sofia and Marc talking about his history as well as their friendship, laced with bits of gossip. Marc is opinionated, and can be strident getting exactly what he wants, but you also see how knowledgable he is about his fabrics and models, down to every minute detail. He wants what he wants when he wants it, saying whatever is on his mind.
The film builds showing the 12 weeks he works to put together his Spring 2024 runway show setting the stage using overpowering oversized furniture by artist Robert Therrien for his models to walk under and through in a huge open room. Jacobs obviously wanted to make a statement with this show and his newest fashion designs, and he does.
Still, Marc Jacobs is very open about having been there and back in his personal life, fighting addiction while trying to keep his business afloat, still a challenge as fashion changes along with the economy.
Sofia sometimes makes her relationship with Marc too much of the film, rather than in service of it. This imaginative artist knows how fickle fashion can be. Can he make a new “grunge and guerrilla” spark now’s competitive fashion scene? Time will tell.
A24 1 hour 37 minutes PG-13
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