This is Writer/Director David Lowery’s most stylized Lowery film yet with ghostly, plus ghastly, emotional and physical tension. He keeps Anne Hathaway and Michaela Coel’s dramatic performances under expressed in what becomes a horror story. Confusing, you have to guess their relationship in this obtuse story containing troubling gory scenes that may make you squirm or lookaway.
Mother Mary (Anne Hathaway) is an intense character Lowery reportedly modeled after specific aspects of Beyonce and Taylor Swift music and concerts. But Mother Mary is a pop icon mega star who lost her mojo after a nearly tragic incident. Deciding to make a comeback, she realizes that there’s only one designer, Sam Anselm (Michaela Coel) who can make the dress she is desperatly willing to beg for her return to her mega concert. There is much more to this story. You know they have a painful past. Were they compatriots, lovers? It’s never quite clear.
Mary shows up unannounced at the designer’s studio and factory as costumer Sam is under pressure preparing a fashion show to unveil her latest work. And here comes Mother Mary, pleading for her to drop everything to make The Dress.
Their interaction is strained and awkward. It’s psychologically traumatic for both of them. Sam, realizing she has power over Mary, and her requests, keeps the pop star at bay. As Mary becomes more fraught, Lowery introduces spiritually frightening visuals of flying fabrics taking on shadowy ghostly shapes, all of which add to the dark director’s creative calling card. But this time, he adds several hard-to- watch painful scenes reminiscent of bloody horror films.
Anne Hathaway is shown in huge concerts singing 7 ethereal original songs written by Jack Antonoff and Charli XCX, in addition to music composed by Daniel Hart. Flashbacks show this leggy actress wearing sparse, revealing fashions, back and front as she saunters around the stage with a placid look on her face, way too detached.
We think the film has a good chance of being considered for awards in costuming, especially for what the director shows Sam can do with fabric at her studio, and for what Mother Mary parades on stage. We found the scenes showing Sam creating designs and working her magic with scissors and sewing machine fashioning stunning fabrics, mesmerizing.
This is another visually disturbing, head-scratcher from David Lowery with puzzling intensity throughout. Hathaway and Coel passionately take on their emotional roles in this story. It’s not easy to watch and will keep you guessing, even after it ends.
A24 1 hour 52 minutes R
